In this comparison test, we neither pick a clear test winner nor make a specific purchase recommendation. That’s because a variety of factors have a strong influence on the performance of MTB tires. For good reason, manufacturers offer a wide range of models and different variants – tailored to different rider types and skill levels, bikes and trail conditions. Riders who primarily shuttle their enduro bikes uphill have entirely different demands on their tires than those who take the same bike into the Alps and earn every descent through their own effort. Even if our editorial team could agree on a specific model, it would only represent the best possible compromise for the most versatile use cases. In short: the perfect tire, one that suits all riders equally, simply doesn’t exist! Instead, we aim to explain what you need to pay attention to in the future, what differences exist, and what you can achieve with certain adjustments – for example, running different air pressures or tire casings. We also explain the different philosophies of the manufacturers and their – at times very confusing – product ranges so you can make the perfect choice for your tires going forward.
We spent months testing all relevant tread patterns, rubber compounds and casings from all well-known manufacturers. To ensure this test remains clear and easy to navigate, we’ve divided it into three parts. In the first part, you’ll find everything you need to know about tires in general. The second part explains the four most important factors to consider when choosing a tire. In the final part, we’ll tell you how to find the tires that suit you best. And following that, we’ll give you an overview of all well-known manufacturers.
The Theory – What You Need to Know About MTB Tires
Tubeless is the way to go – or is it?
The advantages of tubeless-mounted tires are obvious: less weight, more traction, lower rolling resistance, and improved puncture protection. Even though installation can be a bit of a hassle (but doesn’t have to be!), almost all modern MTB tires and rims are designed for tubeless use. In case you’re still riding with inner-tubes, we’ve prepared a detailed tubeless installation guide for you – along with a strong recommendation to finally make the switch. We exclusively ride tubeless ourselves and tested all tires without inner-tubes.
Recently, however, there’s also a trend toward using TPU tubes, which are significantly lighter and slightly more robust than conventional butyl tubes. We usually only carry TPU tubes as a backup puncture kit, since they’re smaller and lighter than regular tubes, and we still strongly recommend a tubeless setup.
At more than 2.5 bar of tire pressure, the loss of grip is immense!
If you’ve never heard of tubeless before, check out our comprehensive MTB tubeless guide. There, we explain everything you need to know about a tubeless setup!
Air pressure is crucial
The correct tire pressure is essential: Too much air and you can say goodbye to comfort and traction. Too little and you’ll get vague, spongy handling and an increased risk of damage. The right pressure is highly individual and depends on countless factors such as tire casing, rubber compound, and trail conditions. We recommend checking the pressure with a digital gauge before every ride and playing around with pressures – the time and effort are well worth it! You’ll find a separate guide here on how to determine the perfect tire pressure.
Tire width ≠ tire width
How wide is too wide and how narrow is too narrow? In principle, the tire width must match the rim width. A wider tire has a larger contact area and can therefore generate more traction. The increased volume also improves puncture protection and comfort. However, with tires wider than 2.6”, aggressive riders often experience negative effects in corners: The handling becomes vague and imprecise, making it hard to hold tight lines. In berms, wider tires fold more quickly and suddenly. Both the rim and the tread significantly influence the actual width of a tire. That’s because measurements are always taken at the widest point – the outer edge of the side knobs. As a result, the stated tire widths from different manufacturers aren’t directly comparable, and a 2.5” tire from MAXXIS may be wider or narrower than a 2.5” tire from SCHWALBE, Continental, or other manufacturers.
Weight
You shouldn’t underestimate the weight of your tires: A tire set alone, without tubeless sealant and such, adds about 2.5 kg to the total system weight of your bike. While that’s roughly equivalent to a full hydration bladder, tire weight has a much more noticeable impact on riding performance. For one thing, the tires are part of the rotating mass that you have to accelerate and decelerate with every pedal stroke and braking maneuver. For another, tires act as a suspension element – even before your fork – absorbing impacts and significantly influencing the performance of your suspension. That said, heavy tires can also improve ride quality: When things get rowdy, heavy tires make it easier to hold your line through rock gardens and root carpets, adding stability to your ride. They also deflect less from small lateral impacts. The line between “too heavy” and “too light” is thin, but generally, it’s worth adding a bit of weight to gain performance and grip – and to protect your rims and spare tubes.
Robust and stable tires are heavy – but they offer clear advantages on the descent. To save on overall weight, many bike manufacturers still resort to undersized OEM tires – what a pity!
Front tire ≠ Rear tire
Front and rear wheels are subjected to different loads and demands. When it comes to MTB tires, the goal is to generate as much grip as possible at the front, while at the rear you have to strike a balance between traction and rolling resistance. There are also major differences when it comes to puncture protection,as the rear wheel is often subjected to much higher forces. Looking at the numbers, most punctures happen at the rear wheel. This means that you have a lot of freedom in terms of tread pattern, casing, and rubber compound. Use it!
Yes, tires are expensive!
Even if you’re not riding new tires every day like the pros, tires as wear parts will keep punching holes in your travel budget. The fact is: A high-quality tire is relatively expensive but also has a massive impact on the riding performance on the trail – and can be the difference between frustration and fun on your holiday. After all, who wants to waste time patching up tires while their buddies stand by laughing and cracking jokes about your tiny pump? You should think of your tires as an upgrade, not just a consumable. It’s far more worthwhile to invest in quality tires than in carbon spacers and custom paint jobs.
What’s the deal with tire inserts?
Tire inserts are now a dime a dozen, and the price range for these systems is huge. The basic principle behind most of them is the same: A foam insert acts as a buffer between the rim and the tire under heavy impacts. This cushions the blow, so the tire either doesn’t hit the rim at all or does so far more gently, reducing the risk of damage. However, very few systems can prevent other problems like burping. We’ve already tested many common tire inserts both on the trail and in the lab for our tire insert comparison test. In the end, though, we were always most impressed by tires with a more robust casing. Why? Because the weight difference between a tire with an insert and a tire with the next tougher casing is often marginal. On top of that, tires with reinforced casings are significantly more durable, less prone to holes and tears, and don’t fold as easily in corners – meaning that you’re getting three advantages for the price of one. So the rule is: Only consider a tire insert if you’re still having issues even with the sturdiest casing available.
Intended use isn’t set in stone
Even if a tire was designed specifically for the front or rear, it can still be used on the other wheel. A Minion DHR II (Downhill Rear II) also performs extremely well as a front tire and offers a slightly narrower alternative to the bulkier Minion DHF. Likewise, Michelin’s Wild Enduro front tire generates more traction at the rear in muddy conditions than the rear-specific variant.
Beyond that, you also have full freedom regarding the tire’s intended use: A “mud tire” can also work brilliantly on bone-dry, dusty trails in the peak of summer. Tire manufacturers provide a rough overview of what the tire is suitable for – but this is not set in stone: You decide!
How did we test so many tires?
All good things take time: No other test at ENDURO took as long or involved as many testers as our tire comparison test. Every editor in our team was involved. Over the past two years, we’ve tested close to 200 bikes. That means 400 tires, on which we logged countless kilometers across an equally diverse array of trails. This gives us a vast reservoir of experience when it comes to evaluating tires. We continue to “ride in” the characteristics of the most common models in all their variations with every ride on our test bikes.
Experience, evaluations, and test laps are one thing,but what really matters is: How do the tires stack up against each other in a direct comparison? During our back-to-back sessions at our familiar Bikepark Kronplatz and on our home trails, our tubeless pump was running at full throttle. Arm pump from tire swaps – yep, we had that, too! But only by riding across a wide range of trails and conditions can we truly assess the differences between tires. For our test at Kronplatz in South Tyrol, all testers rode the Pivot Firebird and the same HUNT Trail Wide MTB aluminum wheelset to ensure consistent conditions: same bike model, same wheels, different tires. On our home trails, however, we used various bikes and wheels made of carbon and aluminum in different widths to cover the widest possible range.
Which tires have side knobs that fold too easily, and which remain controlled near the breakaway point without requiring ground contact? Which tire has the best self-cleaning qualities, and which one won’t let you down under braking? How do the different casings affect ride behavior, and what influence do rebound and damping characteristics of the casing have on grip and control?
In addition, we were able to use Schwalbe’s renowned laboratory for several days to test all tires under standardized conditions. Here, we didn’t just weigh and measure all the models, but also ran tests for rolling resistance, impact protection, and puncture susceptibility to back up our trail impressions. On top of that, our editorial intern – who fortunately comes from a cross-country background – spent several days pedaling up various mountain passes and gravel roads. This allowed us to verify the rolling resistance values from the lab in real-world conditions using GPS tracking and power meter pedals – because that’s where it really counts.
The Kronplatz bike park as a test location
For our back-to-back test, as mentioned above, we headed to the Kronplatz bike park, a place we know like the back of our hand. The park offers a wild mix of trails – from large jump lines with massive berms and heavy compressions to steep, technical, and tight sections. In addition, you can rack up over 1,000 vertical meters of trail descent in one go and then quickly return to the top via a fast gondola. The park’s soil was also an important factor for us, as it changes very little under extremely dry or wet conditions, providing consistently reliable test conditions. For accommodation, we stayed at the newly opened Brondstott Farm & Suites, which not only offers ample space for mountain bikes but is also within sight of the gondola station – making it the perfect base for our test.
Want to find out which tire really suits you best and how the top models compare head-to-head? Our in-depth test covers everything from lab data to real-world performance and expert recommendations. Discover all the details in the MTB Tire Comparison Test 2025 at our sister magazine ENDURO!
Words & Photos: Peter Walker
