When an inner tube suddenly gives up, the wheel magnet spontaneously flies off the spoke, or the chain breaks in half, even riders with the smartest e-mountain bikes need to refresh their outdoor-workshop skills. Here are some emergency trailside repairs you should be familiar with before taking off for a ride.

We all know that an E-MTB makes you go faster, higher, and farther. However, when pedalling uphill in Chuck Norris mode the components take a good beating. In other words, E-MTBs are prone to breakdowns and defects – but this is not as bad as it sounds. In this article, we will share a few tricks and tips which will help you to fix five of the most frequent breakdowns, even when you are in the middle of nowhere.

One crucial requirement for these five trailside repairs is that you pack a good multi tool. You’ll need all relevant Allen and Torx keys and a chain tool! Below we will tell you what else you have to put in your toolkit.

Pack it!

You shouldn’t even consider leaving the house without these spares:

  • Multi tool
  • Chain link
  • Spare inner tube
  • Mech hanger
  • Wheel magnet
  • Mini Pump
  • optional: tire-plugs
  • optional: Co2 cartridge (25g)
  • optional: tire-patches

1. Flat tire

A classic scenario: you’re happily riding along and the next second you have a puncture! Because E-MTBs are notoriously heavier than normal bikes this is a common and frequent issue.
There are four ways to fix punctures and get your bike back on track: patching, changing the inner tube, using a tire plug or, as a last resort, the Rambo-method.
The quickest and easiest temporary solution is a tire plug, but it only works with tubeless tires. You just fill the hole with the plug and hope the sealant will do its job.

The second option is replacing the inner tube. This is definitely the most effective and longest-lasting option. Just make sure you’re not packing an ultra-light touring tube – that could mean another flat tire as soon as you hit the next big root section. If you puncture often, and don’t want to sacrifice your energy bars and peanut butter sandwiches to make space for an extra five inner tubes, you should also carry a patch kit.

The good old patch is the cheapest and most environmentally-friendly option to get your tires back to life. You surely know the procedure: roughen the tube surface around the hole, apply the vulcanising gel, wait a minute, apply the patch, and the job is done. In under ten minutes you’re back in business.

And now the Rambo method, the last hope for those who can’t get hold of a patch, a plug, or a new inner tube for another thirty miles: tie a knot in your tube! Yes, locate the hole, cut the inner tube exactly in that spot, and knot the tube back together. With luck, that’s enough to get you going for another few miles.

A tubeless setup significantly lowers the chances of a puncture; this is a very clever upgrade to consider! We show you how to set up the tires on your E-MTB tubeless

2. Broken chain

Uuuuhhh… that hurt! If you’re not prepared for a broken chain, you’ll be condemned to a long and painful walk home. This isn’t necessary, as the spares you need to fix this mishap are small and cheap. A chain-link is your quickest, easiest and cleanest option. It only costs a few euros and it connects two chain links without any effort. Just make sure the link is compatible with your chain: 8-speed, 11-speed, etc.

This is how you fit a chain-link

  • Remove the damaged chain link with a chain tool.
  • Insert a chain link (observe the right direction)
  • Double-check the chain length in the low (easy) gears
  • If required, tighten the rear derailleur-stop to avoid further damage.

3. Bent rear mech hanger/broken rear derailleur

When you are riding, a broken rear derailleur is a nasty surprise. Even if you listen for the signs that a derailleur is about to give up, such as rattling noises and mis-shifts, sometimes a crash or an impact with a rock can bend or even break a rear mech-hanger. In this case, the best thing possible is that you actually carry a spare mech-hanger in your backpack. The new hanger can be replaced within minutes and with just two or three Allen screws. Let’s keep it rolling!

But what happens if you left your spare hanger on the workbench at home? It’s time for a geek fix. In an emergency, you can remove the entire rear derailleur, shorten the chain, and convert your drivetrain to a single-speed setup. You basically want to shorten the chain in a way that it runs smoothly between chainring and sprocket without the hanger. To prevent the chain from unnecessarily slapping around or even breaking it’s best to keep an even distance between sprocket and chain ring, stiffening up the rear suspension as much as you can. A combination of damper-lockout and/or more air in the shock are a perfect solution. You can forget about gnarly trails, but it’s certainly good enough to get you out of trouble.

This is how you remove a rear derailleur

  • Open the chain, possibly from the chain link or otherwise with a chain tool
  • Remove rear derailleur cable and remove derailleur
  • Stiffen up chassis/ pump up the rear suspension
  • Refit the chain keeping a straight chainline
  • Remove all surplus chain links
  • Close the chain with a link or a chain tool (including the proper chain pin)

4. The wheel magnet came off

A tiny but crucial part. If you don’t want to end up turning over every single leaf on the forest floor, you really want to carry a spare wheel magnet on EVERY tour, just in case you lose yours. Replacing it is very easy and favourable to a long walk home.

5. Glazed brake pads

“Faster, higher, and farther” also means more braking. When the pads eventually glaze due to excessive heat you have to intervene quickly. Simply remove the pads (make sure you let them cool down!) and sand down the glazed layer with something rough. You can either use the sandy/gritty ground or the sandpaper included in every patch kit (or just put a tiny square of sandpaper in your tool pouch).

Go for it! With these five tips, the right tools, and the appropriate spare parts you are perfectly equipped for the next big ride. And to make it a real “Higher, faster, and farther” tour we have also prepared eleven tips to increase your battery range.


Did you enjoy this article? If so, we would be stoked if you decide to support us with a monthly contribution. By becoming a supporter of E-MOUNTAINBIKE, you will help secure a sustainable future for high-quality cycling journalism. Click here to learn more.

Words: Sven Günzel Photos: Christoph Bayer