E-MOUNTAINBIKE City Escape – Vienna
From the saddle of our electro-powered steeds we scope out the prestigious and charming city of Vienna, tracing the contours between high culture and low moods, tradition and modernity, Viennese coffee houses and the Vienna Woods.
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Vienna is unlike anywhere else. Not just because of its architecture but because of its residents. On the surface it might be easy to brush the Austrian capital off as an open-air museum, dotted with imperial palaces and spectacular historic buildings as well as vast green spaces and three strands of the Danube River. But keep looking: culture courses through its veins with such a fever that it’s hard to discern how much is done for the tourist hype and how much is a part of daily life. Are those horse-drawn carriages laden with tourists just there for our benefit, or do they form an authentic part of the fabric of the city? Speaking of authenticity: If you’ve ever heard of Vienna’s derisive Wiener Schmäh humour, you’ll know that the locals just won’t give a damn if you don’t get their jokes.
Everywhere from the queue for the bakery, ordering a coffee, or lazing on the banks of the river, you’ll agree that Vienna has much more to offer than just Sachertorte, Schnitzel, Mozart and Beethoven (neither were born in Vienna, but a large part of their creative work happened here). Its sometimes rigid decorum, happy-go-lucky lifestyle and abrupt changes in mood from civilized to grumpy has meant that Vienna delivers something of an explosive mix. And the same applies to the language.
It doesn’t take a university degree to know that Austrians speak German, but it’s a far cry from the lingo you’ll hear in Hamburg or Berlin, so don’t worry if you feel out of your depth with high school Deutsch. During our extended E-MOUNTAINBIKE City Escape in Vienna, even our German team had a crash course in Viennese – admittedly mainly swearwords. Fortunately, given that we were riding brand new Haibike FLYON eMTBs and surfing along flow trails, they were all to exclaim about the good vibes.
In the surrounding forests and mountains there’s a thriving bike scene with an increasing number of official trails and even a trail centre. And for those less inclined to shred, there’s no shortage of beautiful cycle routes – take in the Danube River and a loop towards Prater, the Austrian rival to Central Park which is twice as big!
You already read the first part, so enjoy the following five:
- 2/6 Keep it classy – How to spend a Sunday in Vienna
- 3/6 Spanish Riding School – A lesson in elegance
- 4/6 Life is Good – The world on two wheels
- 5/6 Culture and Opera Balls – Cafés, Bars, Restaurants, dos and don’ts in Vienna
- 6/6 More power than a horse-drawn carriage – Our Haibike FLYON models in detail
Keep it classy – How to spend a Sunday in Vienna
Ever get the feeling that you’re trying to spin too many plates? These days we’re all guilty of trying to cram as much into our free time as possible and allocating every free spot on the calendar to socialising, group rides or other appointments. As riders Babsi and Lefti demonstrate, it doesn’t have to be like this in Vienna.
The working day in Vienna is generally short. The Viennese, on the whole, prefer to indulge in art and culture over stress and sweat. It’s a culture that’s reflected in their weekend habits, which are best described as ‘leisurely’. After their morning coffee, Babsi and Lefti know exactly what is next on the agenda. A traditional coffee house for two ‘Wiener Melanges’, orange juice and whatever tempts their sweet tooth from the cake display. If you didn’t know: while the rest of the world orders a cappuccino, the Viennese opt for a melange. You’ll be in trouble for saying it’s the same thing, but there are very few who can tell you the exact difference between the two.
Once settled, the pair throw together a plan for the next few hours. The forecast predicts a 90% chance of rain, so heading south is probably the best option. Destination: the Vienna Woods, in German the Wienerwald, sitting on the foothills of the northern Alps and a designated UNESCO Biosphere Reserve thanks to its unique vegetation, springs and huts. But what interests us most is that the ribbon has just been cut on an official singletrack line, which has set tongues wagging.
We drive 20 km south of Vienna by car to Mödling. What awaits us here are the sorts of flowy trails you dream about and woodland with a rather interesting history – the Empress Maria Theresia reforested the southern heathland of the Vienna Woods with Austrian pine in the 18th century in order to prevent desertification of the landscape. On days like this when there’s a high chance of rain, the great thing about this region is the tackiness of the ground, making it a treat to ride in the wet (and better than the sodden loamy ground in Vienna).
With our Haibike FLYON models we enjoy the flowy, natural singletrack through gentle berms. This Sunday isn’t for pushing ourselves; we do enough of that during the week. Now let’s shred, not sweat. At the top of the mountain the woodland opens out with a surreal temple that dominates the view. The Husarentempel was constructed to commemorate the history-shaping battle of Aspern-Essling during the Napoleonic Wars. It’s exactly the right spot for a quick breather and a moment to admire the view before cruising into the newly built, expertly marked trail. Cruising turns, nailing the roots and generally having a blast – could we ask for anything else? Actually, yes. The moody guardian of the mountain hut puts a damper on the day by rejecting our pleas for food. It seems a unique Viennese trait to become suddenly grumpy without any obvious reason. It’s nothing to worry about, but Babsi and Lefti take us onwards, knowing that it’s pointless arguing with him.
Wir legten eine kleine Pause ein, genossen die Aussicht über Wien und begaben uns dann auf den neu gebauten und fein ausgeschilderten Trail: Weicher Waldboden, flowige Kurven, leichtes Gelände zum Spielen und ein paar knifflige Wurzelfelder – was will man mehr? Noch eine Runde? Na klar! Zum Abschluss gönnten wir uns noch ein kühles Weizen. Es hätte der perfekte, harmonische Abschluss der Tour werden können – wäre da nicht der grantige Wirt der Schutzhütte gewesen, der unserer Idylle ein Ende bereitete und mit barschem Ton unsere Essenswünsche abwies. Das Wichtige ist in solchen Situationen, darauf gar nicht einzugehen – alles andere bringt niemanden weiter. Unsere Theorie: Offenbar war es anstatt eines Gasthauses ein Wirtshaus, wo noch immer der Wirt der König ist… Doch Babsi und Lefti waren diese urplötzlichen Grantler gewohnt und beruhigten uns mit einem gediegenen Prosit. Es geht einfach nichts über einen (Halb-)Tagesausflug mit Freunden!
Back in Vienna, we let Sunday run its course. To escape the rain, we hunker down in one of Vienna’s many third-wave cafes and shared-space concepts combining a coffee shop with a record store or bookshop. There’s a clear consensus in the city that these spaces are worth visiting.
Come early evening we shelter from the storm in the city’s best Italian restaurant, chomping on pizza and musing over the best way to accept what life throws at you. Spontaneity and flexibility are what counts, especially on the weekend. There’s a lot to be learned in Austria when it comes to valuing downtime and minimising stress. From now on, do it the Viennese way: less graft, more gnar. Leisure means pleasure. Leiwand!
Routes
- Things are moving. The Wienerwaldtrails crew are striving to develop more legal mountain bike trails.
- By shuttle or eMTB, head up to Trailcenter Hohe Wand Wiese. Then enjoy the fun, flow trails down.
- Looking for the ultimate flow? Plan an excursion to the Wexltrails in St. Corona.
- Our favourite: From Mödling to the Husarentempel and back along the brand new legal Husarentempel-Trail.
Spanish Riding School – A lesson in elegance
For a more sophisticated side of the city, the Spanish Riding School is a bastion of beloved Viennese traditions. And that’s the beauty of Vienna – the diverse city opens up so many different worlds where you can find inspiration. We visited this venerable institution to find out what makes horses and humans tick and left the stables feeling like we’d learned quite a bit!
Chief Rider Herbert leads us through the hallowed halls and stables of the Spanish Riding School. “This is the oldest riding school in the world; it’s incomparable. It’s the world’s only institution where the classical art of riding – the High School of Classical Horsemanship – has been preserved for more than 450 years and still thrives today in the same manner. It’s included in UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity” rounds off Herbert, who has worked here since 1994. After 11 years of intensive training, he became a Rider and finally, in 2019, stepped up to become a Chief Rider. During our private tour, Herbert reveals the hidden work that goes on behind each performance, and what’s required for each successful outing – don’t be surprised at the many parallels to the bike world.
Those who regularly tune in to MTB World Cup racing recognise what style and elegance look like on a bike. But what you often don’t see are the countless hours in the gym, the critical breakdown of each performance and the years – or rather decades – of experience that lead up to those crucial few minutes of racing. It’s the same story at the Spanish Riding School: the elegant performances might look like they’re done with ease, but it wouldn’t happen without six days a week spent working with the horses. There are two performances per week, giving the Lipizzaner horses essential time to rest. Physically they’ve got to be at the top of their game in front of the crowds, but time out for mental recovery is also needed. Much like mountain bikers, you only ride at your best when you’re in a good mood.
Take note: cameras aren’t allowed during the Spanish Riding School’s training or performances. While there’s no stage or curtains like in the theatre, these are athletes at the top of their game. Maybe it’s good not to have cameras flashing in their faces while they’re concentrating. What about shifting this attitude to riding too? It could be worth keeping in mind every time we whip out our cameras as we carve a turn or spot a view while out on a ride.
Life is Good – The world on two wheels
For those who thought that riding was just about turning the pedals, then we’ve got to disappoint you. Jenny and Georg are living proof that bikes are so much more than just for fitness – and nowhere more so than in Vienna.
Everyone talks about sustainability these days. Some with the best intentions, others with half an eye on their image or their conscience. But for whichever reason you advocate it, make sure it extends beyond just what you buy at the supermarket and channel it into every aspect of your life. How sustainable is a high-pressure office job with breakfast-on-the-go, little time to see your family and a disproportionate amount of your life spent in traffic jams?
Leading a healthier and less stressful lifestyle doesn’t have to be difficult. There are ways to see more of the world and make the most of those brief breaks in your working day. I’m sure you can guess what we’re referring to: eMTBs. These can be the key to revitalising your health and putting you on a more sustainable track – one that takes you to previously unimagined experiences. What’s stopping you? Yourself. Break out of your routine and on to your bike. Enjoy a new frontier of freedom and explore the world. With their Haibike FLYON hardtails, Jenny and Georg do exactly this in Vienna.
Ride up to a business meeting on knobbly tires? It’ll not only make your colleagues jealous, but those endorphins will boost your mood for the rest of the day. It will make you wonder why you don’t insert more bike breaks into your otherwise stressful working day.
Cruise through Prater, relax alongside the Danube, take a break at a beach bar – Vienna is really bike-friendly and has lots for you to explore at your own leisure.
Routes
- Swimming and sightseeing in the centre of Vienna – go by eMTB: Trip on Komoot
- Go by train into Wachau and along the Danube to the most beautiful castles and cloisters: Trip on Komoot
Culture and Opera Balls – Cafés, Bars, Restaurants, dos and don’ts in Vienna
Bike shops and rental
BikeStore.cc Trailcenter Wien – Service, sale and rental
Where? Mauerbachstraße 174–184, 1140 Wien
Web bikestore.cc
Mountainbiker.at Wien 9 – Service, sale
Where? Stadtbahnbögen 145–150, 1090 Wien
Web mountainbiker.at
Bernhard Kohl – Service, sale
Where? Triester Straße 282–284, 1230 Wien
Web bernhardkohl.at
e-motion e-Bike Welt Wien – Service, sale and rental
Where? Breitenfurter Straße 313, 1230 Wien
Web bikestore.cc
Gerrystrom – Service, sale
Where? Franz Josef Straße 10, 2380 Perchtoldsdorf
Web gerrystrom.at
Velothek – Service, sale
Where? Hauptplatz 6, 2401 Fischamend
Web velothek.at
Sport Nora – Service, sale
Where? Hernalser Gürtel 33, 1170 Wien
Web norasports.at
Radmechaniker – Service, sale and rental
Where? Gredlerstraße 2, 1020 Wien
Web radmechaniker.at
Coffee & Relax
Café Ritter Ottakring – Traditional Wiener coffeehouse with Wiener specialities – far from the tourist crowds.
Where? Ottakringer Straße 117, 1160 Wien
Web caferitterottakring.at
SUPERSENSE – Café with in-house music and analogue photography shop serving tasty, fresh food.
Where? Praterstraße 70, 1020 Wien
Web the.supersense.com
Café Phil – Book shop and cafe in one! Browsing, reading, enjoying a coffee and tucking into tasty food – you’ll find it all at phil. Oh? And that vintage stool you’re sat on? That’s also for sale.
Where? Gumpendorfer Straße 10–12, 1060 Wien
Web phil.info
Food & pleasure
Restaurant Meissl & Schadn Vienna – Schnitzel, Schnitzel and yet more Schnitzel – the best address for a delicious Schnitzel with an open kitchen and a classic yet contemporary vibe.
Where? Schubertring 10–12, 1010 Wien
Web meisslundschadn.at
Heuriger 10er Marie – Nothing better than the Wiener Heurigen if you’re looking for authentic fare. Expect to imbibe only the finest Viennese wine too.
Where? Ottakringer Straße 222–224, 1160 Wien
Web 10ermarie.at
Sofi Vera Pizza Napoletana – dLocals claim it’s the best pizzeria in town and it has an open kitchen with a stone-fired oven.
Where? Brunnenmarkt 161, 1160 Wien
Web pizzasofi.at
Hotels
Schloss Wilhelminenberg – Charming castle on the edge of Vienna and not far from the Trailcentre hohewandwiese.
Where? Savoyenstraße 2, 1160 Wien
Web austria-trend.at
25hours – Right next to the Museumsquartier – a stylish, bike-friendly hotel with a rooftop bar.
Where?Lerchenfelder Straße 1/3, 1070 Wien
Web 25hours-hotels.com
Hotel am Brillantengrund – Trendy hotel with temporary art exhibitions and events. The owners are keen roadies.
Where? Bandgasse 4, 1070 Wien
Web brillantengrund.com
Hotel Sans Souci Wien – Boutique hotel designed and furnished by Philippe Starck.
Where? Burggasse 2, 1070 Wien
Web sanssouci-wien.com
DOS
- Act cool and kick back – Vienna’s hours of sunshine are worth treasuring.
- Swim in the Danube (swimsuit optional), Strandbad Gänsehäufel is our tip.
- Begin Sunday mornings with a leisurely breakfast in a traditional coffeehouse.
- Stroll through the Museum Quarter: events and open-air concerts run all summer.
- Ride an eMTB up the Leopoldsberg with a visit to the castle – expect phenomenal views over the city and the river. Most tourists won’t make it up the ‘Berg’ and will opt to see it from a distance.
- Do a loop of the Cottageviertel by the Türkenschanzpark – you’ll immediately want to buy property here. How much have you got for a mortgage?
- Go to the Donauinselfest (DIF), the world’s biggest open-air festival.
- Eat authentic Pakistani food at the Wiener Deewan. Not just popular with students: Pay as much as you want.
DON’TS
- Vaguely arrange to meet friends at a stage at the DIF – it’s a massive area!
- Order a cappuccino at a traditional coffeehouse. Hint: in Vienna it’s called a melange.
- Forget to grocery shop: shops have strict early closing hours across the city!
- Eine Schorle bestellen: Das heißt G’spritzter – Holler g’spritzt, Weißer g’spritzt … Ihr versteht.
- Forget to take a scarf to the opera – if you’re getting a last-minute standing room ticket, you’ll want one. Think: sun lounger without a towel.
Austrian for Beginners
German and Austrian German are worlds apart. GCSE German will only get you so far, so take note of these crucial differences:
Baba See you
bisserl A bit
blad Fat
Bussi Kiss
Eitrige Cheese kransky, type of sausage
Extrawiaschtln Special treatment
fett Drunk
fesch Attractive
Gackerl Dog poo
Grätzn Annoying person
g’spritzt Juice or wine mixed with water, like a white wine spritzer.
G’stopfter A rich person
Hawara Boyfriend or partner
heast Hey! Listen up!
hudln Hurry up
Kaiserschmarrn Typical Viennese dessert
Kieberer Police
in de Kistn hupfm Sleep with someone
Krügel A large beer
leiwand Awesome
Marie Money
miachteln To smell
net Not
oida Mate!
Öffis Public transport
Paradeiser Tomatoes
Patschen Flat tire
Patschen picken: Fix a puncture
Pfiff Small beer
pudern To have sex
Sack(er)l Shopping bag or tote bag
Schmäh Humour
Schnackerl Hiccough
Semme(r)l( Bread roll
Stamperl Glass for schnaps
sudern To whinge and moan
Tschick A cigarette
ur Very
voi Very
wuascht Whatever
As you’ll have noticed, a lot of the words stem from similar topics – such as moaning or cursing. Here are a few more essentials for this common Viennese pastime:
Angschissener Wimp
blunzenfett Incredibly drunk
deppert Stupid
Funsn Arrogant woman
Gescherter Hillbilly
Grantler Whiner
Gusch Shut up!
Koffer Idiot
Luschn Wimp
Nudlaug Idiot
Piefke German
Oasch Arse (body part or insult)
Wappler Jerk
Trutschn Stupid woman
schiach Ugly
Schas Stupidity
More power than a horse-drawn carriage – With the Haibike FLYON through Vienna
Sophisticated and elegant: the Haibike FLYON bikes of Babsi, Jenny, Lefti and Georg are a fine example of style, well-considered design features and smart components from top to toe. The entire FLYON collection has been engineered with a fully integrated 630 Wh battery, a large colour display and the most powerful eMTB motor that we’ve ever tested. The Haibike HPS 120 S delivers a not-insubstantial 120 Nm – so whether it’s a traffic light sprint on the Ringstraße or the leg-burningly steep Eisernenhandgasse on the Kahlenberg, this bike keeps your momentum up.
For their eMTB adventure, Babsi and Lefti opted for the Haibike XDURO Nduro 10.0 with a plush 180 mm of travel along with the slightly more upright and playful Haibike XDURO AllMtn 8.0 with mixed wheel sizes. The top-end XDURO Nduro 10.0 comes as standard with the Skybeamer 5000 front light and Twin Tail Lights. With this amount of illumination, you can comfortably extend your visit to a traditional Heuriger tavern into the hours of darkness. Babsi’s Haibike AllMtn 8.0 also features the Skybeamer light set-up, though this is not a standard component on the bike.
E-Mountainbike adventure
Haibike XDURO Nduro 10.0
Fork FOX 36 Float Factory 180 mm
Rear shock FOX FLOAT X2 Factory 180 mm
Motor/Battery FLYON HPR120S / FLYON The Battery 630 Wh
Drivetrain SRAM EX1 8-Speed
Brakes Magura MT7 4-Kolben 200/200 mm
Wheels Haibike TheHub ++ / RODI Tryp 30 29”/27,5”
Tires Schwalbe Magic Mary
Haibike XDURO AllMtn 8.0
Fork FOX 36 Performance Elite 150 mm
Shock FOX FLOAT DPX2 Performance Elite 150 mm
Motor/Battery FLYON HPR120S / FLYON The Battery 630 Wh
Drivetrain Shimano XT 11-Speed
Brakes Shimano XT 4-Kolben 200/200 mm
Wheels Haibike TheHub ++ / RODI Tryp 30 29”/27.5”
Tires MAXXIS Minion DHF / DHR II 2.5”/2.8″
Suitable for daily use
Jenny and Georg grab every moment they can to make use of their Haibike XDURO AllTrail 5.0 and Adventr 5.0 as a means to escape the daily grind. Super functional bikes, the sophisticated full-coverage mudguards on the Adventr 5.0 take a weight off their style-conscious minds, while the pannier rack securely holds Jenny’s backpack. Georg likes to stay true to his mountain biking roots and won’t give up chunky tires for anyone, or anything – the 2.8″ wide tires give him the luxury to swiftly cut corners, taking the direct route down steps to reach his meetings. And style? That’s not up for debate.
Haibike XDURO AllTrail 5.0
Fork SR Suntour Raidon34 140 mm
Motor/Battery FLYON HPR120S / FLYON The Battery 630 Wh
Drivetrain SRAM NX Eagle 1×12
Brakes MAGURA MT5 / MT4 (v/h)
Wheels RODI Tryp 35 27.5”
Tires Maxxis Minion DHF / DHR II 2.8″
Haibike XDURO Adventr 5.0
Fork SR Suntour XCM34 120 mm
Motor/Battery FLYON HPR120S / FLYON The Battery 630 Wh
Drivetrain SRAM NX 1×11
Brakes MAGURA MT5 / MT4 (v/h)
Wheels RODI Tryp 35 27.5”
Tires Schwalbe Smart Sam 2.25”
For more information about the Haibikes just head to haibike.com
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Words: Robin Schmitt, Felix Stix Photos: Robin Schmitt